There is no schedule, only a rough ordering. Under similar use, budget stainless like 3Cr13 or 7Cr17MoV needs attention soonest, 8Cr13MoV and 420HC next, then D2, 440C and VG-10, then S30V and S35VN, with CPM-20CV and MagnaCut going longest. What you cut matters more than which of these you own.
Abrasive material is what dulls a blade: cardboard, rope, dirty wood, and anything gritty. Cutting a lot of cardboard will dull any steel in a fraction of the time that cutting food will.
Cutting board hardness matters too. Glass and stone boards destroy edges regardless of alloy.
Do not wait for dull. Strop or hone lightly and often, and a working edge stays working almost indefinitely. Full sharpening then becomes an occasional job rather than a rescue.
The test is not whether the knife looks sharp. Draw it lightly across paper: if it catches instead of slicing, it wants attention. See honing versus sharpening.
If you enjoy sharpening, a mid-tier steel keeps you in a satisfying loop. If you resent it, buy carbide and accept that when the day comes you will need diamond plates and patience.
Neither approach is wrong. They are different relationships with the same tool.
Every steel we stock, with its published composition, hardness range and the trade it makes, is documented in the Steel Lab.