Different grits serve different stages, but every sharpening does not need every stage. Buck starts a nicked or extremely dull blade on coarse grit, while a touch-up can start at its medium or fine stage. Buck also says a good, sharp edge can be finished at its medium stage without going on to fine.
Buck's how-to page separates heavy sharpening from a touch-up. Its coarse stage addresses nicks, inconsistent edges or an extremely dull blade. A blade that is only somewhat dull or needs a touch-up can start at Stage 2 or Stage 3 instead. That is a condition-based choice, rather than a requirement to use every grit each time.
The pocket-knife sharpening answer compares the makers' methods. Follow the instructions for your knife and sharpener; the stage labels here describe Buck's method.
Buck calls Stage 2 medium to final sharpening. Its instructions say a good, sharp edge can be finished there, without Stage 3. The third stage uses natural stone or a fine grit sharpener to remove remaining burr and burnish the edge. A more complete sequence is available when needed, but Buck does not prescribe it for every touch-up.
Buck warns that the burr can cut like a sharpened edge. Use the maker's handling instructions while checking or changing stages.
A grade word alone does not identify the abrasive. Buck's 2026 catalog labels its EdgeTek Ultra FlipStik Medium at 750, but its Diamond Pocket Sharpener Medium at 400. The sharpening-grit glossary keeps those labels with their products.
This method does not establish a universal shopping list of stones and a strop, or a steel-by-steel rule that requires diamond. Choose from the instructions for the particular knife and sharpener. For lubricant guidance, read oil on a sharpening stone.